Page 1 of 2

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2001 12:46 am
by Guest
hey guys,
check your rudders for water. J-boats do not seal the brackets on the rudder. The rudders are hollow and can fill with water. My suggestions are to remove caulk and replace. If you have any other question e-mail is gccomp@swbell.net .

Thanks,
David

PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2001 1:17 pm
by Guest
I would further recommend drilling out oversized holes where the bolts go through the rudder. Tape one side and fill the holes with epoxy, then redrill the bolt holes after the epoxy cures. This will ensure that any leakage around the bolts does not penetrate the balsa core (which I thought occupied the entire interior, though I suppose some portions could be hollow).

PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2001 6:07 pm
by Guest
How do you check for saturation?

PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2001 10:42 am
by Guest
Just received our new Hull #355. Checked the rudder bolts and they were not sealed. No water in because we had not been sailing yet but we're glad we found it. Thanks to Jay Lutz for giving us the heads-up.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2001 2:58 pm
by Guest
Have been on boats that the outboard engine has vibrated the gudgeons loose.Maybe 5200 or something else could be the solution???

PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2001 4:09 pm
by Guest
My gudgeons are attached with hex head bolts and nylocks, which should not vibrate loose. Play in the gudgeons due to wear is another story...

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2001 10:56 am
by Guest
To follow up on J. Jones post, how do know if you have saturation?

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2001 10:39 pm
by Guest
Does anyone have a “moisture meterâ€

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2001 8:20 am
by Guest
My gudgeons & pin are worn due to wear, the pin as grooves worn in its diameter, I can change the pin
but the big problem is the brackets attached to the rudder, the holes are badly worn, any suggestions ? I am thinking on the lines of re-bushing with Delrin.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2001 9:02 pm
by Guest
Roger,

A machine shop can fit bronze bushings into your pintles. I used 1/2" ID 5/8" OD bushings, the hight of the pintle which I believe is 2". A decent machine shop can line bore the pintles as mounted on the rudder so that they line up.

When you reinstall the rudder add a 1/8" thick washer under the top of the pin to shift the grooves in the pin up and expose fresh pin to the gudgeon.

A further refinement is to somehow fix the pin so that it cannot rotate in the gudgeon, thus all the friction is between the pin and the bushings in the gudgeon.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2001 11:54 am
by Guest
Are you sure the wear is in the pintles (parts attached to the rudder) rather than the gudgeons (parts attached to the transom)? My steering had developed quite a bit a of play, but I found that all the wear was in the pin and gudgeons. I replaced only those parts and kept the original pintles and the system is now snug (no play). I had a piece of UV-resistant UHMW machined to match the shape of the upper gudgeon with a cutout in the middle that lines up with the nut on the pin, preventing it from rotating. So far the new system works great!

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2001 9:56 am
by Guest
Purchased a New J-80 (381) this year and have a high pitched vibration in the rudder at certain speeds (not all) what can I do to correct this vibration

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2001 1:50 pm
by Guest
Have the rudder professionally faired.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 4:15 pm
by Guest
How does one change the gudgeons (the parts attached to the transom). Mine are worn badly. How do you reach the nuts inside the transom?

Bruce

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 5:09 pm
by Guest
Bruce,

You have to install an inspection port in order to get to the rudder gudgeons.

Jay Lutz