Ealy J80

Racing Tools & Techniques

Moderator: forumadmin

Postby michaelobrien » Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:56 pm

I am considering purchasing a j80 built in 1994 and imported into France. Is there anything that to note regarding the earlier hulls built.

Is there a performance difference from later hulls?
Was there a different construction process for the earlier hulls and are there and downsides regarding hull integrity and the possibility of the presence of osmosis?
Have any later class rules disadvantaged earlier hulls built?
Any other issues?


Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm

Postby Guest » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:49 pm


The older US boats (00) were hand layed up like the French boats. Both required correcter weights. I have USA 44 and have about 170 lbs of weight added. I have no water problems/bisters with mine, although I do not believe its ever been in the water for long periods. I believe all J-80 were made with vinyl ester resins which are better than polyesters. The stachion bases on the older boats are weaker than (000) and may required welding. In general I beleive the boats are made strong enough to last and a old well care for J-80 can still win with the best.

Good luck..Bill

[Posted by: Bill Rose

Postby nikonsean » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:51 pm


I have #43 so we're kind of like twins. I bought my boat in August and it has been in the water since until last week when I took it out to apply new VC17. No sign of blisters so far. The boat was wet sailed on Lake Ontario prior to my purchasing. I haven't class raced (just PHRF) so I cannot compare newer boats for speed.

Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm

Postby Guest » Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:35 am

I will chime in as well, since I own hull 45. The older (non-SCRIMP) boats do tend to be lighter, but may have small voids where they are resin starved. Mine had a small one on the bottom, which was filled when I had the bottom faired. Getting an epoxy bottom should prevent any blistering, though mine lived in the water for a year or more before I bought it in 1999 and did not show any signs of blisters. My stanchion bases have been either welded or replaced.
Look for rust weeping out of the holes where the hardware is bolted through the rudder. This is an easy fix (overdrill the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill). Holes in rudder gudgeons may also get enlarged over time and need replacement. If you do this, you will need to cut an inspection port into the cockpit sole to access the bolts. After replacing mine, I pinned the pintle to prevent rotation and have had no further wear issues.
Go for it and enjoy the boat!

[Posted by: Chris Morlan

Postby derek_jackson » Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:31 am

I thought that all J/80's built in the USA were SCRIMP boats.....
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm

Postby Guest » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:25 am

Nope. 1993 and 1994 boats were hand layup.

[Posted by: Chris Morlan

Postby jackal » Wed May 06, 2009 6:13 pm

Hi all,
I have hull number 55, based in Bahrain, Middle East. Just got dismasted in November when the windward chainplate failed in 28 knots, during a regatta. The hull has been wet sailed for ten years and is in perfect condition. Gelcoats a bit faded now, but she is sound (except for some fittings). I note that 1994 boats are hand laid, and like others thought they were scrimp. For those with older hulls, remove all your rigging base plates and check thoroughly.!! They are the bits that will fail.
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm

Return to Racing Tools & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest