Topping lift

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Postby Guest » Sun Jul 13, 2003 11:44 am

When my boat was delivered it was rigged wrong in almost every way. Fixed most of the screw ups but I can't figure out the topping lift. It looks like it should run to a sheave at the outboard end of the boom, inside the boom forward to a levered cam cleat. If this is right then the cam cleat was bolted in backwards. Anyway, can someone explain or send a picture how their correctly run topping lift is rigged. Thanks!
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Postby Guest » Mon Jul 14, 2003 9:19 am

Most boats do not have one. Get a rigid vang instead!
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jul 14, 2003 9:40 pm

I don't bother with one either, seems unnecessary even with a soft vang. I looked at the manual (in case you don't have one), couldn't find anything about the topping lift. The dealer should be able to find out for you, even if they did mess it up the first time. Good luck...
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Postby Guest » Tue Jul 15, 2003 12:12 am

I removed mine and now use the main halyard as a topping lift when I'm done sailing. Takes the pressure off the spring in my quick vang, but I used it while I still had the original soft vang, too. Maybe with a soft vang, it is useful when underway in light air to soften the leach? Not sure if that's intended.
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Postby Guest » Tue Jul 15, 2003 11:17 pm

Follow-up to July 13th post:

Yes, I'd love to get a rigid vang, but seeing as it will cost nothing to get the topping lift adjustment device that is presumably already there, that is at this point my best option, so any help with rigging the factory setup would be helpful. Any other "rigid vangs are better" comments should be followed up with a donation to the Roadkill Quickvang Donation Fund, PO Box 2125, Rockwall, Texas 75087. Thanks for your support.
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Postby Guest » Wed Jul 16, 2003 8:23 am

Tim,
You and I are of the same mold. If it is supposed to be on the boat, I want it there and I want it to work. Especially if I have already paid for it.
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Postby Guest » Wed Jul 16, 2003 6:04 pm

I have #256 and the boat did not come with a boom topping lift from the factory package. The boat also came with a "soft" vang. The rigid vang is extra. Again we use the main halyard to support the boom while the mainsail is down.

Craig White
"Warrior" #256
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Postby Guest » Wed Jul 16, 2003 7:27 pm

Tim,
I have hull # 254 and it came with a topping lift. As far as I can remember the topping lift on a j-80 is not adjustable. Mine had a shackle on the end of it that attached directly to the end of the boom.Its comprised of a 30 ft 1/8 wire with a 4x1/4" tail. You are welcome to it, free of charge as I have no use for it. If you are going to use it to twist off the main in light air you'll find out that it doesn't get along with the leech very well because of the roach in the mainsail. The sheeve you are referring to in the boom is for a reefing line.

Robert Miller
JESTER
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Fri Jul 18, 2003 12:55 am

I have #257 with the soft vang and the topping lift attached to a shackle at the end of the boom (there is a hole drilled in the Hall boom end cap for this). Not sure if the lift is original to the boat, but it does help support the boom until the main halyard is led aft to the same shackle. Don't think I would (or could) use it to adjust sail shape.
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Fri Jul 18, 2003 10:29 pm

Ok, it seems nobody knows how to rig this topping lift, so... Does anybody know what the lever action cam cleat on the boom at the tack is for? That may help answer my other question.
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Sat Jul 19, 2003 10:07 am

For a reefing line...
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:57 am

How to rig a topping if needed.

1. Drill a 3/16" clearance hole 1-3/4" forward 1" up from bottom edge of crane from backstay pin on mast head crane install 3/16"x1 1/4" grip stainless steel clevis pin w/cotter ring (or key).

2. Use 3/16" spec 12 from newly installed 3/16" pin at crane. Size may seen big but easily splice able and to hold on to and little weight.

3. Put eye splice with Sailmakers thimble on the top end, and small headboard shackle in bottom end of spec 12 16" up from boom in horizontal position.

4. Run 5/16" using a snake from aft end of boom to forward end you may have to remove forward casting to retrieve line. Use reefing cleat provided in casting for cleating. Line is approx. 15' long not including eye splice and thimble.
And your done total time to install 2 hours if you can't get up mast. I weigh 230 lbs and go up using a falls 3:1 block and tackle on main halyard. The boat and rig are stiff enough so it is safe.
5. Make a tag line line 2-4' long at base of mast so when sailing you can remove topping lift from aft end of boom and move forward to mast base so you eliminate all chaffe from sail.

I can send you all of the materials needed for job.
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jul 21, 2003 5:00 am

The following is how rig a adjustable topping lift drilling only 1 hole
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:27 pm

I don't have a topping lift since my boom vang holds up the boom until I get the main halyard attached, but if I didn't have a boom lift, I think I would figure out a way to attach a small line to the "Y" on the backstay that could extent to boom. When not in use, the line could extend a little further to the stern pulpit or have a small amount of shock code there to keep it out of the way. It might be used just in transition until the main halyard can be attached. Such a system would be cheap and require no drilling. I have seen Lightnings (which I also sail) do this instead of using a boom crutch (which is yet another idea).
Terry Burke
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Postby Guest » Wed Jul 23, 2003 12:57 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions, unfortunately most have not understood that a topping lift on a boat without a solid vang is useful underway, and that is precisely what I was intending to have the ADJUSTABLE TOPPING LIFT for. Anyway, I think CraigJ answered the important question and I have inverted the cam at the tack, since I don't have any need for a reefing line at this point, and run an extension of the stock topping lift inside the boom forward. Now it can be adjusted at the tack. Thanks to all.
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